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  • I, New York
    Time Out New York / Issue 685 : Nov 13–19, 2008
    You asked for it

    Lolita fashion

    The hottest fashion out of Japan turns adults into dollies--re-creating the look in New York just takes a little dress-up.

    By Louis Monoyudis

    Geisha V (Myspace.com/GeishaVi) as Chu Chu Bubblegum, wearing a design by LilHevn (Myspace.com/LilHevnShop)
    Photograph: William R. Macleod Jr.

    Dear TONY,
    I am a cross-dresser. Please do an article about Sweet Lolita fashion. Like all my sister cross-dressers, I want to buy a Sweet Lolita dress. Please advise; the sister community needs your help.

    Respectfully.
    Joe
    Hoboken, New Jersey

    What it is
    Lolita—a Japanese fashion trend—means a whitewashed Wednesday Addams look, with bubble-gum-pink hair ribbons, lace socks, and Victorian throwbacks such as bonnets, petticoats and parasols. No, most stylistas that follow it are not emulating Nabokov’s famous character; modern-day Lolitas seek to return to a bygone era when virginity and chastity were demanded of women.

    “The Japanese Lolita subculture is deliberately not sexy, at least in the eyes of its members,” says Ted Polhemus, fashion analyst and author of Streetstyle: From Sidewalk to Catwalk. “My guess is that this obsession…is a flight away from the pressures of teen and adult sexuality.” Lolis engage in activities such as tea parties, ballroom dancing, and playing children’s games like hopscotch, jump rope and hide-and-seek. Some of the favorite musicians in the circle include Malice Mizer, Schwarz Stein, Soft Ballet, Cali Gari and Velvet Eden. Find sisterhood online at the Elegant Gothic & Lolita community (community.livejournal.com/egl).

    There are several subclasses, ranging from Sweet Lolita (doll-like and girlish) to EGA (elegant gothic aristocrat), detailed online (freewebs.com/brokendolly). While the Lolita scene has been popular for more than a decade in Japan—particularly among Harajuku hipsters—the trend has yet to erupt in the States, and few boutiques carry clothing that fits the rigid Lolita style. According to Geisha V, one of New York’s best-known Lolitas, resources are scarce. “People in the States have to order their clothes online directly from the Japanese companies or learn to sew and make the garments themselves,” she says.

    Designer la Carmina (lacarmina.com), wearing her own design.
    Photograph: La Carmina

    How to do it
    Japan produces a lot of Lolita wear, but sizing can prove challenging, especially for cross-dressers. Usually there is only one size offered, around a U.S. size 8. Still, Japanese Lolita websites such as Baby, the Stars Shine Bright (www.babyssb.co.jp) and Juliette et Justine (juliette-et-justine.com) can provide inspiration. But there’s no need to weep into a lace handkerchief over missing out on Japan’s delicate looks; Lolita outfits can be assembled from domestic clothing. You’ll want to stock up on petticoats, frilly blouses and Mary Jane shoes at stores like H&M (558 Broadway between Prince and Spring Sts; 212-343-2722, hm.com) and Claire’s (1385 Broadway between 37th and 38th Sts; 212-302-6616, claires.com)—look for anime-inspired accessories. Gothic Lolita, in particular, is about the sedulous application of layers, so try placing a high-waisted skirt over a petticoat.

    Other, less generic options include Gothic Renaissance (104 Fourth Ave between 11th and 12th Sts; gothicrenaissance.com), Tokio 7 (64 E 7th St, 212-353-8443), Trash and Vaudeville (4 St. Marks Pl between Second and Third Aves; 212-982-3590, nycgoth.com) and Patricia Field (302 Bowery between Bleecker and E Houston Sts; 212-966-4066, patriciafield.com). Touches of the Lolita look can be seen in high fashion, particularly in designs from Betsey Johnson, Imitation of Christ and Vivienne Westwood, so high-end department stores and boutiques can also feed the habit, while vintage stores offer velvet capes and filmy button-down Victorian blouses.

    See moreYou asked for it


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    • 51515 Mel Tue, Jan 06, at 01:07pm
      Well, you didn't actually write very much about sweet lolita. Sweet lolita is a sub genre of lolita fashion that includes ideas of sweet candies, cupcakes and generally cute icons. The clothing has a color palette that leans towards pastels and sometimes a limited amount of bright colors. Baby the Stars Shine Bright is a pretty good representative of sweet lolita fashion. Sweet lolita is often inspired by edwardian and victorian fashion, not gothic.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 51353 sora Mon, Dec 29, 08, at 10:03am
      Ewww this article sucks the big one... I thught reporters where supposed to do RESEARCH before writing an article not just do a google searh and pick the first 3 things they see. Blegh this article is made of FAIL.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 51339 Lulu Sun, Dec 28, 08, at 5:07pm
      I thought reporters were supposed to do some research before making an article. This article is made of FAIL. Both pictures chosen for these article do NOT represent Lolita fashion at all. You should have done better research. This is a website with accurate information about the lolita fashion: www.lolitafashion.org . Because Lolita fashion is not a whitewashed Wednesday Addams look, with bubble-gum-pink hair ribbons, lace socks, and Victorian throwbacks such as bonnets, petticoats and paraso

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 51258 lolihoe Mon, Dec 22, 08, at 10:41am
      lawl. this is bullshit. man, i've also had sex when i was in lolita. and also, i think you should have not picked the ugliest, most retarded members of the lolita community. they know shit all about anything to do with lolita. you poor, poor misinformed, lazy, lazy man.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 51135 Neko Wed, Dec 17, 08, at 9:13am
      This article is horrible. If you want to really learn about lolita go to my site here: www.freewebs.com/lovely-neko

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 51119 Mary Tue, Dec 16, 08, at 4:14pm
      Laura Walton: Those are not lolita clothes for cross dressers. Those are sissy clothes. Sissy and lolita are entirely different subcultures, even if lolita sometimes has cross dressers in it. A male who wishes to wear lolita would have better luck going to the same sources that the females go to.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50965 Monica Wed, Dec 10, 08, at 4:10pm
      The question-poster clearly meant the "sister community" as the group of "sister cross-dressers". Did you not even read the introduction to your own article? If you did, then by "Find sisterhood online at the Elegant Gothic & Lolita community", were you intentionally suggesting that the EGL community is a community of cross-dressers?

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50420 Sam Tue, Nov 25, 08, at 10:23am
      Those pictures are both laughable. Geisha V looks like she's wearing some type of cosplay. La Carmina is best known for crashing and trying to ruin the NYCC fashion show because she wasn't included, due to her crap designs and very obvious lack of style. If you had done any research on the brand websites or the live journal community you mentioned, you would have seen scads of girls in lolita fashion who were actually doing it right! This message brought to you by onerandomtranny.com

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50342 Fail? Fri, Nov 21, 08, at 8:22pm
      fail

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50310 Yuka Fri, Nov 21, 08, at 2:40am
      Most of you seem to think there are only 2 types of lolita. If you guys were really paying attention to the scene in Japan you'd know better. Go to www.lolitafashion.org and you will clearly see that there are 16 different types of lolita styles. So for all of you just stuck on Rococo get with the times. As for Geisha V that's Cosplay Lolita. if you knew the current NYC party scene you'd know her. This isn't just a Kamikaze girl look, it's an evolving fashion. Don't stop it's growth.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50190 Kat Mon, Nov 17, 08, at 5:52pm
      TONY this is absolutely shameful. The article is poorly researched. Your example of a lolita is blatantly wrong and is something I would expect from a podunk rag not a magazine that professes to have its finger on the pulse of the city. I am a part of the NYC lolita scene and I have never seen or heard of this person. Frankly, I would be embarrassed to be seen with her. She has no aspect of lolita in her clothes. Kindly google lolita and new york and visit the nyc lolitas and egl for real info.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50189 Doli* Mon, Nov 17, 08, at 5:47pm
      Can you please do research next time you write an article? Seriously? It's bad enough most real news sources can't describe it accurately. Learn to research. Kthxbai.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50141 pcn Sun, Nov 16, 08, at 6:34am
      lolita has nothing to do with sexuality -yes! the style of the clothes is child-like and meant to be cute and without any sexual thoughts. but there are people that like lolita x sex, you can't generize that. people that wear lolita aren't always the same.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50139 XXX Sun, Nov 16, 08, at 12:38am
      "a flight away from the pressures of teen and adult sexuality.” lmao. I had sex in my lolita clothing once...people are just people, no matter what we wear. There are both prudes and skanks in and out of lolita, thank you very much. The only thing corect in this entire article is stating that we are not trying to be like that lame ass book. p.s. do reasearch instead of pulling things out of your ass. Your are greatly miss-informing the masses... :/

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50128 Alee Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 2:17pm
      I'm going to join in on these complaints. These pictures are bad examples of lolita and the information on this article is obviously from someone who doesn't know about the style itself. I think this should either be taken down or just completely redone for the sake of the lolita community. It's misleading for someone just finding out about the fashion through this article.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50125 Katarina Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 1:49pm
      The LiveJournal community holds the best answers for people who are only beginning: http://lolita-handbook.livejournal.com/profile The LiveJournal EGL community was a small redeeming factor for this article, as the community has many up-to-date resources as well. The writer may not have intended for this article to be misleading, but this was not a well-researched attempt. It is unfair to give those curious about or interested in the fashion both out-dated and untrue information.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50120 Sloane Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 7:32am
      Your choice of models was appalingly bad, unless you were trying to demonstrate what not to wear. To claim this Geisha V person is "one of New York’s best-known Lolitas" is ridiculous because she's not even wearing a lolita outfit in the photo. Furthermore, asking Carmen Yuen for advice is tantamount to begging for misinformation. She is not a good representative of the fashion, but rather a self-serving attention hog who tried to wreck the NYCC fashion show just because she wasn't included.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50117 Georgia Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 4:36am
      Just echoing what others have said, this is a terribly misinformed article on lolita. It seems like you just looked at these two pictures (which are, by the way, very, very far from lolita) and made up a whole spiel without doing any research whatsoever. The worst part is what you said about lolis playing jump rope and hide and seek. NO. I wear the style everyday and it doesn't make me behave like a five-year-old. You linked to the EGL community - so why didn't you bother to look at it first?

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50116 Cleo Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 3:52am
      Oh my God, this is just awful! It seems like you did your research in every wrong place possible. It seems the only things you did right were linking to the EGL community and mentioning Babyssb and Juliet et Justine! I know its been said already by numerous people, but dont ever, ever, EVER talk to Ms. Carmina about lolita fashion. Shes probally the mosted despised in the entire US lolita community.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50115 Blue Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 1:45am
      This is the worst article on Lolita fashion ever written. As someon who's been heavily involved in the fashion style for many years, I'm telling you this sounds like you made this all up, pulling crazy information out of thin air. There is not a single word of this article that is accurate.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50114 Susan Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 1:24am
      Excuse me but I believe your article was not very informative. You should have done a lot more research on the topic. Then you would have found out about brolita which would help the man who asked the question. The first example picture you showed is no where near Lolita. We are not anime inspired or use satin, ever. The fashion comes from the Rococo period. Also I have no idea who this Geisha V is. I'm a New York Lolita, how is it that I don't know about this nobody?

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50113 Eby Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 1:20am
      Oh man, is this a big joke or something? The lolita handbook should be linked rather than that mess by brokendolly http://lolita-handbook.livejournal.com/ H&M may have a few good things. But you honestly couldn't buy a good lolita outfit from there. I see you mention two really good lolita brands. But it's apparent that you never actually LOOKED at either of their sites or you wouldn't make such a glaring mistake as claiming you can get a petticoat at H&M or using la Carmina as an example ever.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50112 Purin Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 1:05am
      Whoever wrote this article did no research and only listened to two of the most ita and drama-causing members ever to log on to EGL. This is a terrible article and I suggest it be re-written by someone who will do some of their own research.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50111 Amber Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 12:43am
      Hi, who is Geisha V? No one knows her. All the other comments basically summed up what is completely wrong with this article; perhaps if you looked to the recent New York Times or the LA Times article about the fashion, perhaps then it wouldn't seem your hard work turned into a flaming hot mess. I suggest any inquiries about the fashion should be made on the Livejournal NYClolitas community or the EGL community, not some random hipster's blog.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50110 Molly Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 12:42am
      This article is just all wrong, and the photos are hilariously bad and totally not lolita.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50109 Rachel Sat, Nov 15, 08, at 12:34am
      Using la Carmina for your article is such a bad idea.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50098 Nancy Fri, Nov 14, 08, at 6:08pm
      As a Lolita, I have a serious issue with this article. First off, if you're going to direct an article about Lolita to men who are interested in cross dressing, first have to address that the majority of the followers are women and you have to mention the concept of "brolita." Second, a lot of the New York sources listed here are not very good places to find genuine lolita style clothing. Third, just an echo of the other comments below, the first photo is not Lolita at all.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50097 Kelsey Fri, Nov 14, 08, at 5:25pm
      As a NYC lolita myself I'd like to point out a few problems with this article. first, not all lolitas are cross dressers. . l. in fact most of us are not. Second, pink satin and anime inspired anything do not factor into the fashion. Lolita is almost entirely based on two historical periods, Victorian, which you rightly referenced, and the Rococo period. I encourage you to amend this article with one about lolitas after consulting real lolitas, instead of cosplayers.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50095 CJ Fri, Nov 14, 08, at 5:25pm
      I have to concur with the majority of the comments already listed here - this article poorly depicts the Lolita sub culture. The picture of Geisha, for example, is NOT lolita fashion. In general, this article lacks proper understanding and information about what the fashion and the community is all about. It would be advised to do more research in the future.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50093 QuincyC Fri, Nov 14, 08, at 4:41pm
      It seems that you are very misinformed on the Lolita fashion. I'd also suggest looking to the recent NY Times artice on Lolita Fashion, which is a much better source of information. That first photo is a cosplayer, not a Lolita; and Lolita does not equal cosplay! And you can''t just make up a 'lolita outfit' out of generic locally found clothes. Putting a petticoat under some flat, short skirt is NOT Lolita. Many Japanese brands also ship overseas, and you can always buy secondhand brand items.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50091 Laura Walton Fri, Nov 14, 08, at 4:22pm
      You can find Lolita styles made for crosdressers at www.LDFashions.com

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50082 ellie Fri, Nov 14, 08, at 1:42pm
      "Lolis engage in activities such as tea parties, ballroom dancing, and playing children’s games like hopscotch, jump rope and hide-and-seek." No. Just... no. No lolita ever plays hopscotch, jump rope, or hide and seek. Also, La Carmina is more interested in getting herself publicity and book deals than knowing anything about Lolita. Please revise your article for accuracy.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50079 Angela Fri, Nov 14, 08, at 1:16pm
      This is honestly one of the worst lolita articles I've ever read. First of all, some of the Japanese brands, including Baby and Angelic Pretty, have started to ship their clothes internationally, making it much easier for non-Japanese lolitas to wear brand. Secondly, whoever "Feish Vas Chu Chu Bubblegum" is, she looks like a cosplayer, NOT a lolita. Where did you guys get your info from? There was a great article in the NY Times with actual lolitas a few weeks back. Consult it please!

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50068 K Fri, Nov 14, 08, at 9:27am
      This is the stupidest article I have ever read. You know nothing about the fashion and culture. The pictures are not even close to being lolita either.

      Flag as inappropriate


    • 50012 lolitan Thu, Nov 13, 08, at 1:32pm
      Just so you know, La Carmina is universally hated in the lolita community for crashing a fashion show, stealing photos to use on her sorry excuse for a blog, plagiarism, knowing nothing about lolita fashion, and generally looking like a hot mess.

      Flag as inappropriate



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